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Something new out of Africa

The Sunday Times, 17 July 1994

by Hugh Pearman

'Hugh Pearman reports in the Sunday Times on hippos at the waterside and a house on an hillside.'

'Imagine building a house in one of the most perfect landscapes in the world. A place which is not only staggeringly beautiful, but where there are no niggling planning restrictions, no nit-picking district surveyors, not even any regulations telling you how to join one stone to another. There is as much space as you will ever need. There are no human neighbours for miles. Oh, and it is very, very cheap.

'You will have gathered that this is not exactly Hampstead, or the Gorbals, come to that. So for a pair of hard-pressed British urban architects, Hugh Cullum and Richard Nightingale, this house was like a deep breath of fresh air. Cullum and Nightingale were accustomed to the British way: having to fight to get even little buildings and little alterations woven in to the fabric of the city, with a dozen different interests ready to breathe down your neck and suggest, nay, insist, that you do something rather different or not at all.

'Then they were told: design a big house next to Lake Naivasha in Kenya. Do it how you like. The land's there, the outlook's magnificent, you'll have to use local materials and labour. Watch out for leopards, and don't forget to say hello to the hippos. Or words to that effect.

'Nightingale knew all about this, havoing been born and raised in Kenya. Cullum sprang from Canada, but both trained as architects at Cambridge, where there is a strong tradition of humane moderism, very different from the sometimes outlandish products of the fashionable London schools. Working from their cluttered Georgian office in King's Cross, London, they have designed and built a string of houses in the lake-bedecked Rift Valley of southern Kenya, and are now half-way through building the new British High Commission in Nairobi, a project they won against stiff competition.

'Known in Britiain for their attention to detail and ability to make the most of every square inch of space, in Kenya they had the chance to throw away the tape measure along with the rule book; which makes it all the more interesting to find that, left to their own devices, their instinct was entirely the correct one: to build out of the landscape, and to tap into the way things are put together locally.

'Having been brought up in a classic planter's house, Nightingale knew what his point of departure was going to be. "Colonial farm buildings here consist of a string of rooms with a veranda along the front and probably along the back as well," he observes. "People virtually live on the verandas during the daytime, and the rooms inside tend to be very dark. In the house we built, the veranda is separated from the house so that you get light in."

'This is something of an understatement. The Ward House, as it is known after its owners, Simon and Raye Ward, sits on a hillside running down to the lake where the hippos wallow. Cullum and Nightingale have taken the idea of the veranda and pulled it out into a lofty triangular platform perched high - nearly 20ft - above the ground on columns made of old telegraph poles. This viewing platform is built around a tall and spreading thorn tree which provides a natural canopy from the sun. In this high part of Kenya it gets hot during the day - though seldom so uncomfortably humid as an English summer, Nightingale observes - and very cold at night. So when you retire inside from the veranda, you are in a house made with thick walls of the local grey volcanic stone - a classic 'thermal buffer' to iron out such heat and cold fluctuations.

'The stone was cut on site, fairly roughly, and has a timeless quality, as if grown from the earth. The roof is the normal settler's corrugated iron, of the kind that provides the traditional drumming effect when the heavy rains come to fill up the lake: however, the architect's hand is apparent from the fact that this is a single-pitch roof, visible only from the landward side. From the lake, the house appears as a craggy all-stone structure.

'The house is arranged with two wings in the V-formation, with the entrance at the point of the intersection. On the far side of the stone-floored entrance hall, big double doors open up the house to views of the lake beyond. This is a double-height hall, crossed at first-floor level by a timber bridge linking the two wings. You have to cross the bridge to get to the main run of first-floor bedrooms. What look at first glance like wrought-iron rails to the bridge balustrade and the veranda turn out to be simply dirt-cheap steel reinforcement rods, as used in concrete, further evidence of how none of the materials used is costly or imported.

'It is the kind of house that can take the rather ad hoc clutter of life on an 8,000-acre African ranch, where a five-bedroom house like this, with servants' quarters, is by no means unusual or extravagant, even though it is enormous by British standards. "It probably costs less than people in this country would spend on their kitchen refurbishments," says Nightingale. The comfortable furnishings, the rugs on the polished wooden floors, the rough unplastered stone walls and the speed with which vegetation grows up the outside all conspire to make this a house that looks as if it has been part of the scenery for many years. Only the occasional touch, such as the internal metal zig-zag trusses to the timber-boarded roofs, give away the fact that this is a thoroughly contemporary building.

'The interiors are designed deliberately to relate to the landscape. In the main living room, for instance, you are, slightly perversely, denied views of the lake; this is to encourage you to wander out on to the lofty triangular veranda, where the stupendous view opens up right across to the dormant volcanoes on the far side.

'For the two architects, this kind of work is release from the complexities of designing in Britain. "It enables you to indulge your fantasies a little, in a way you can seldom do in this country," says Nightingale, "and, because it's at a distance, you can't worry too much about how it's built."

'I wouldn't worry too much, either. Hands up who might consider swapping their kitchen refurbishments for this? I think the ayes have it.'